Sorry that this is late and ridiculously long and that there are so many photos on facebook. I did lots. And I haven't proofread this. So there.
Day 1 Christchurch to Auckland to Waiwera
My first view of New Zealand was arriving in to Christchurch airport. The mountains were VERY impressive! And are very near to the town. Then came sheep (already seen more sheep than people and I hadn't even landed) then we landed. Due to logistics I then had 4 hours to wait in the airport so I did the sensible thing pre-camping and had the longest shower possible.
Internal NZ flights might be the most relaxed thing ever. Didn't need to worry about liquids (Cass even told me of someone taking a McDonald's on after forgetting what time it was - it just needed to be x-rayed) and away we want. I much preferred Jetstar to all the other flights (Qantas) so far - the staff were even funny!!
On arrival at Auckland airport Cass and Joe were waiting for me at the gates WITH A SIGN! It was very exciting. I couldn't really believe I was with them on their adventure on the other side of the world. We found the van (Amber) and headed off in to the night. Cass had a brilliant plan of where to stay to fulfil my wants of hot springs the next day. Unfortunately the campsite (that was hiding) was closed and we couldn't find the other one. So we spent the night all three of us in the van (Joe gallently took the kitchen floor) in a layby next to some public toilets. In the tree next to us there was a gnawy creature. Some sleep was had (I snored through my cold (maybe I do anyway?)).
Day 2 Waiwera to Whangarei
We woke to the sound of Tuis and the discovery that we were just across the road from the beach. Nevertheless we drove to a different bit of beach to have breakfast looking out before heading to Waiwera thermal spa resort. Pools ranged in temperature from 34-48 degrees; we didn't manage the hottest for fear of cooking ourselves. One of the pools has a movie screen! The place also had slides which eventually opened (an hour later than advertised) but it was worth it for Joe to get a go. Cass and I both did each slide once and then went for the rubber rings in the gently flowing river. Just when we were having our last warming dip in the movie pool the RAIN started properly and we decided to get some lunch and then get going up the road.
On our way we found a little town with a statue to Scotland and celtic links. We didn't find as much as we expected so just took a picture and carried on our way. Somewhere along the way we had naps, but I can't remember where. Final stop of the day was Wharenghi Falls via a very big diversion and traffic queue. We found a lovely little family run campsite where Cass made noodle soup and we drank wine. Joe and I (the snorers) took the van and Cass went out in a tent.
Day 3 Whangarei to Paihia
In the morning the rain was not to be seen and went on a lovely waterfall walk then through some bush down river to a Kauri forest and canopy walk. Kauri trees are massive and grow up very straight with only branches and leaves at the top. We will find more (and a visitors information centre) later in the trip. We then had a bit of a detour to some other falls that were not marked on the map, meaning we had a long way to go back to the van - boo.
We stopped for lunch at a beach at Tukatuka where we found some nesting shags with fairly large young. I accidentally fell asleep in the van for a while, with my arm resting in a bungee rope that the others found odd - I thought it was comfy. Joe found a boat & snorkel trip that he really wanted to do, so booked on it for the next day. As we were leaving town we spotted a limestone reserve with interesting rock formations, so stopped for wander around. There were a few trees with dead possums hanging out to dry, which was a bit creepy so we went around fairly fast! There is a handy little walk around what used to be the tramway for transporting the coal from the mine.
We carried on driving to the Bay if Islands (via the Kawakawa famous public toilets) mostly in the rain and hail and did a wreckie of Paihia before picking the first campsite we'd seen. I was still feeling rather ill and it was raining and cold and miserable so we booked a lodge for two nights to stay put. It was right on the beach with our own bathroom and kitchenette. The main reason we picked this place was it is in walking distance of a pub! There are very few pubs around, and when we were one of only two tables of people in there it's easy to see why. A few jugs of beer, pub food, good chat and horse & greyhound racing on the TV was lovely.
Day 4 Paihia (Bay of Islands)
Joe headed off in the van very early to get to his trip, whereas Cass and I had a more leisurely morning and were picked up for our boat adventure. We headed on a tour of the Bay of Islands on a small ferry sized ship. We were last on due to a mix up with tickets so all the good upstairs seats were taken; this worked to our advantage and we got prime spots up on the front of the boat instead. This was the best idea ever until we started at some speed so got rather cold rather quickly! It was worth it, as we may never be back. The skipper gave entertaining commentary on the way of the history of the islands. Most stories involved incomers doing something that the local Maouris didn't like (tapu = sacred) and then killing them. We were supposed to be spotting dolphins but instead found Orca - this is probably why there were no dolphins! It was brilliant, we got really close and watched them feeding on sting ray in the shallow waters for a while, then the bull swam directly under us and off in to the mighty Pacific.
We carried on our way to the 'Hole in the Rock', which is exactly what it sounds like. It looked like a much smaller hole than our boat so I was rather surprised when we headed straight for it, and also rather surprised when we got through just fine! We then spent 5 minutes trying to identify a species of ray that turned out to be a plastic bag. Don't litter, children. We next stopped on the island of Urupukapuka for refreshments. This hub of island commercialism incorporates 1 bar/restaurant! Cass and I opted for a longer stay so waved our boat off and went exploring. We had our own personal beach for a while, spotted birds (the oyster catchers that are all black with orange beaks and something else nesting on the beach) and climbed hills for excellent views. Then a bit of a lounge around and rest before the boat returned and we got a lift to Russell with the afternoon trip.
Russell is one of the oldest towns in New Zealand boasting the oldest church and first police station. We found it to be rather deserted and uninteresting, but that could just be our bad timings! So we didn't stay long and got the passenger ferry back to Paihia and walked back to the campsite. We took a while longer than expected as we followed the 'coastal path' - with hindsight we're not sure there was one, as we had to leap rocks and paddle through the water to make it along. We did it, eventually, and earned our dinner with wine evening in.
Day 5 Pahia to Ahipara
After the second night in our cabin we abandoned all hope of kayaking as the weather was pants ("changeable"). It seems the weather is nice for alternate days only. Instead we headed to Waitangi National Reserve, the site of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi between the Maori and Europeans in 1840. The tour started with a video starring Billie Bear, our boat captain from the Bay of Islands cruise! Cass and I were very excited. We then learnt of Maori customs and history in the traditional way, through storytelling. Maori only have a written language because the Europeans made them. The tour was ok, but not as good as the ticket seller made out - we learnt more from the video and guide books we had read in advance, and more again by listening in to our guide later telling other groups better things. We had a spot of lunch in the cafe with excellent views of a pond and local wildlife, including Tui and eels. Officially the best pies Cass has had in NZ.
We swung by Haruru Falls (horseshoe) and then headed further north to our next destination: Ahipara. We tried to check out Manganui harbour on the way, but the weather did not allow any sailing fun. The campsite we found had a great common room so we sat and played cards with a background of American Idol. I now have only seen this programme in my parents' house and there.
Day 6 Ahipara to Cape Reinga to Kohukohu
We got up bright and early the next morning for a bus trip to Cape Reinga via Ninety Mile Beach, the furthest north point of New Zealand. Our guide fooled us in to thinking he was terrible, but once we got going on the trip properly he was excellent. I mostly enjoyed his singing of traditional Maori songs, although when he listed Yugoslav names for a seemingly long time was also good. On our way up we saw the most northerly pub and post office and had a rather unsuccessful lunch at a lovely beach. At the end of New Zealand the Pasific Ocean meets the Tasman Sea, resulting in big waves where the currents collide. I guess I hadn't thought about oceans crashing in to each other before. Ninety mile beach is a lie - it's 56 miles - but it is a main highway in Northland. TO get there the road is along a stream, which is possible all year round for a reason I forget. Along this stream we had a brief stop to sandboard down a dune - I went for the sledge option but came off 2/3 of the way down. The beach ran us all the way back via a bus wash, where Cass blagged us sandwiches as we'd missed most of lunch.
Once back at camp majority rule meant we headed off down south. We accidentally found NZ's oldest bridge (disappointing) and set up camp at a wee treehouse camp ground in Hokianga surrounded by beautiful gardens.
Day 7 Kohukohu to Baylys Bay
Amber (the camper) did not want to start the next morning. A lady from the campsite (we think daughter-in-law) was out pushing her small child in a pram and offered to help us push start. We go to the bottom of the drive with no luck, so Joe did the manly thing and looked at the engine - success! We were on our way. We'd missed a ferry by then so drove around for a while before getting the next one. On board we kept the engine running just in case, and the helpful ticket collecty man found us a garage a few towns down who would come out and open and up on a Saturday so we went to see Bruce. He got her sorted, including taking her for a very fast test drive without warning so Cass and I clung on for dear life (and tried to continue with crochet!).
Eventually we reached our destination: the Kauri forests. These massive trees have been used over centuries by Mauri tribes to make wake (ceremonial canoes), etc. We first saw Tane Mahuta, the Father of the Forest (largest Kauri at 52m tall and over 13m girth) before heading down the road to see the second largest and the Four Sisters (down a closed unsafe path). Continuing the pattern of weather the day was rainy and cold but ever hopeful we went to look at a DOC campsite down on a lake (possible Kaiiwi) hoping that it was sheltered from the wind and rain. NOPE! So we continued on and ended up at Baylys Beach where we got a 4-bed cabin and found a lovely pub/restaurant for fish and chips and beer.
Day 8 Baylys Beach to Waipu Cove
After a spot of breakfast we drove down to see the beach - Joe had tried the previous evening but it was further than we though so he went straight to the pub. Following signs and expecting a car park we accidentally drove on the beach, but Amber coped well and all was fine. It was a glorious day, but windy as. As we'd had less wind on the east coast we decided to head there instead of further down the windy west. This was a good plan and we had a lovely afternoon on the beach at Waipu Cove. We all went in the Mighty Pacific! And made a sandcastle. As we were having such a nice time we decided to stay and drink wine and camp at the nearest place. I might have got a little bit too much sun and was tired and emotional - it turns out I'm not very good at just sitting on a beach all day. Also I made curry that was far too hot for the others to eat, so was a bit annoyed at myself. C'est la vie.
Day 9 Waipu Cove to Huntly
We had breakfast on the beach and spent a few more hours lounging. Due to my revelation that I'm not programmed for beaches we grabbed some lunch (Cass acquired chips and Joe cooked eggs on the public BBQ, available at all good beaches) we headed in search of a beach that had other activities around. Goat Island (named as they used to leave goats on it in case of shipwreck so the survivors had food) seemed the perfect candidate, boasting a sandy beach, snorkelling and wildlife. It turned out that the beach is grey and the weather turned a little so we weren't so keen on snorkelling. Oh, and also we had to drive along a freshly not-quite-finished road resurfacing, which mostly came away on the tires and cause the van to make HIDEOUS screeching sounds. Joe braved the cold waters to make up for the journey (which did have beautiful views) for some snorkelling. I was togged up and water up to my waste before chickening out. I have tried snorkelling a few times and always hated it, so didn't want to panic when out there on my own in the cold.
After that success we decided to bomb it down the road and get as far south as possible to aide the plans for the next few days. This took us to Huntly, a typical Kiwi town, which I found fascinating. As usual all shops closed about 4pm so by the time we got there we could just about get bread and milk. The campsite was mostly full of single men in the area for work, either in their own campers/converted buses or cabins, but it was also on the border of a nature reserve. I rescued the too hot curry by the addition of tinned tomatoes and we enjoyed the view.
Day 10 Huntly to Rotorua
This day's plan had changed about 100 times, but we got there in the end! Firstly a journey to Watiomo where Joe and I saw glowworms in a cave. The drive took us through NZ's corrugated iron capital - Otorohanga, a whole town whose signs are made from corrugated iron and some whole buildings are too. The glowworms were in a massive limestone cave. We went through caves and learnt about the formation, graddually getting darker to get our eyes adjusted. We then saw the glowworm fishing lines, which I hadn't seen before so was fascinating, and then headed to a very peaceful boat ride along with glowworms overhead. Overall the tour was very nicely done and I think not harmful to the caves. Meanwhile Cass had been on a walk and found a substation (!!) and did better gift-shopping than me - or at least looking and letting me know so I went back and got a brilliant mug. :-)
Then we headed to Matamata where we met Mel (Cass's sister) and Em (her wife) and the three of them went off to Hobbiton whilst Joe and I did laundry.
Day 11 Rotorura
Em was still a bit upside down and tired so opted out of the days activities for exploring the town on her own - sounds like she had a lovely time. The four of us went touristy! Firstly the sheep show - 19 breeds of sheep, duck herding, cow milking (starring me) and lamb feeding (starring Joe). What a feast. Then we went in search of Kiwi at Rainbow Springs. One of the highlights was the log flume boasting 9 minutes of adrenalin - mostly hilarious because we were poking fun at the ride for 8 of the minutes before realising the drop was actually rather far!! We saw captive Kiwis in the breeding programme and Mel and I had an argument with a lady who wanted to shine a light at them. Throughout this Cass accidentally played them Kula Shaker.
Between the activities we prepare a hangi - the traditional Maouri way of cooking using the heat from the ground. We prepared a lot of vegetables and a bit of meat and put them in a big tin and in to the campsites proper area. In theory you can do this in the actual ground, but this was was safer for us! After 5 hours or so dinner was ready and yummy. Weirdly still not hot, even though steamed through.
Oh, also that day Joe dug a big hole in the beach for us and we had a little hot pool. The whole hot thing was pretty weird!!
Day 12 Rotorua
The day again started with tourist things: Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland. There's a geyser that prisoners found when clearing the area of bush and washing their clothes, so now every day at 10:15 they add bio detergent to the geyser and it spouts water out. Despite the tourist pull it was still interesting and amazing to see. We then walked around the various pools of the wonderland. It's so fascinating that this all exists - bubbling mud, hot ground water, sulphur and other salt deposits. To counteract how bonkers that all is we threw ourselves down the hill at the Luge.
We decided to venture in to town on our last night as there was a night market. Night market is a bit of a strong term, especially as apparently it slows right down after dark! On the way there we had a little look at the Maouri village. The difference from other villages we'd seen was that the graves were above ground encased in concrete - I since found out that this is because it is risky to dig down as they don't know what thermal stuff they'll find under there.
Cass, Joe and I attempted to have a big night out, but only managed a couple of drinks! Lame-o.
Day 13 Rotorua to Tokaanu
Before leaving Rotorua we had a quick glance at the park in town. It's quite interesting to think about having a normal park with random thermal outbursts.
We headed up the road to Lake Taupo, from which we could see Tongariro erupting. It's a lovely town that we would have stayed for longer in if the weather was a teeny bit nicer and if there wasn't a national bike race running through it! As it was we made plans for the next day and headed to a campsite to allow them - a campsite that also happened to have various hot pools on site. Lovely. But a bit Kiwi-as.
Day 14 Tokaanu to Ohakune
The morning started with an early pick up for Cass, Joe and I to go white water rafting. Joe had been rafting but for Cass and I it was a first. We paid an extra $4 for this tour compared to some others, but for that got a chocolate on board, beer, hot dog and a jump in a secret waterfall half way round. Rafting was not nearly as strenuous or hard as I thought it would be - that could just have been our excellent guide and good gear though. To get to the waterfall jump we had to rockclimb/scramble/swim along an inlet to find a two stage waterfall. The jump was from the first half of this down to the bottom, where the water is double aerated and deep. Joe went first followed by Cass. They made it look easy, even though they also looked scared. When I got up there my feet refused to jump. SO in the end my body went and my feet followed, so I went head first. I was thinking on the way down that this is how tourists die. I didn't, but it wasn't pleasant!!! I felt a bit dizzy for a while afterwards.
After a bit of recovery (shower, hot dog, cider, shopping) we got dropped back at the van to find very relaxed Mel and Em; they'd been for a walk and to the thermal spa. Cass, Joe and I had a speedy walk around the thermal park to catch up, then we had a speedy lunch followed by a 2 hour bush walk around a lake. Confusingly most of the walk was uphill.
Mel and Em then dropped us at Orakune Junction and headed down the road towards Wellington, before the head to the South Island. We found a cute backpackers run by a couple from Saltaire, Yorkshire. As free bike hire was mentioned we thought we better should so we did. I'm not sure if it was my waterfall head dive, general tiredness/lack of co-ordination or the freshly gravelled path, but I quickly wiped out and limped back to the hostel bleeding from leg and arm. At least the town had a PUB that was open past 9pm! This is rather unusual. It was warm and cosy and did yummy food and beer, so we were set for the night.
Day 15 Ohakune to Auckland
We started with a lazy morning of admin - research, checking e-mails and phoning home. The house was lovely for doing this, with two living rooms and a deck all round. We then did the long trek to the train station (about 1 minute walk) to wait for the train. It's so weird that the country does not run on trains. One train goes from Auckland to Wellington and back the next day, no service on Wednesdays. Fortunately Sunday is a north day, so we all boarded the train for a scenic and very comfortable ride through the mountains and valleys. Cass and Joe left at Hamilton to fulfil Joe's wish to go there (we think it's probably dull) and from there they will hitchhike back to Wellington. I stayed on the extra two hours to Auckland.
Auckland seemed to be the same as most big cities, and because I was tired and alone and had to be up early I just found food and stayed in.
