New York


The flight was early and due to helping Katherine and generally faffing I ended up with only 4 hours sleep.  So I slept most of the flight.  And was still tired, so when we arrived at 5pm and took 2 hours to get to the hotel all I wanted to do was go to bed.  Luckily Katherine wasn't wanting a crazy all nighter so we had some dinner at the local diner and went to bed.

Saturday morning we both felt tired and groggy (planes = sinus) but attempted to get on with it anyway.  First we took the subway to 23rd (we failed to swap tracks so ended up on the wrong block) to find the High Line, an elevated garden on a disused train track.  It's a great project, making green space out of wasted space.  There's art on the way along too.  It ends (or starts??) in Greenwich Village so we then wandered through there and SoHo to Chinatown and Little Italy.  Neither of us were hungry enough for lunch so we kept on going by walking to the World Financial Centre to take in the Winter Gardens.  This was right next to the 911 site, where a lot of construction is going on but we didn't investigate fully.  After the gardens we grabbed deli lunch and ate it whilst waiting for the Staten Island ferry.  Battery Park, right on the point of Manhattan, appeared to have some storm damage.  The last subway station is still closed, benches were missing and the globe sculpture is dented.  Our ferry out to Staten Island was in light so we got a good view of the Statue of Liberty, then we returned in the dark so had a great view of the Manhattan skyline.

By this time despite me buying a new coat and Katherine a new thermal vest we were rather cold, so the only thing for it was to go indoors and that means shopping!  Grand Central Station had a holiday fayre so we went to view the artisan stalls on offer.  Fortunately we didn't spend our life savings.  Next stop was the Rockefeller Centre, which was PACKED.  The Christmas tree and ice rink are just up so it was exceptionally busy for a Saturday night.  We had to leave the crowds so headed to Times Square, which although it was busy we could still manage to find a space to sit and watch the world go by.  We were just about ready for dinner then so hopped a subway to Big Nick's, recommended by our dad.  It was brilliant!  We were ushered through the kitchen to a few tables at the back.  The menu had every conceivable dish on it.  And jugs of beer.  And it was the cheapest USA meal out so far.  A brisk 20 block walk back ended the evening brilliantly.

Another slow-ish start but when we did get going we went NYC-style with coffee and bagel in Central Park.  We then spent a couple of hours in the park meandering and watching birds.  Katherine hadn't brought her binoculars as she didn't want to be an annoying bird nerd and making us stop all the time, but I was stopping more!  I managed a few good bird photos.  We also went to the zoo in the park, which was pretty good for $12 (luckily it was $12 as we'd decided that was our limit as Melissa will pay $12 for rhinestones).  The park is a pretty brilliant asset to New York - such a good space for the people.  There were loads of dog walkers, families, joggers - even in the freezing cold.

Next we went to see what was on at the cheap ticket hut on Broadway and grabbed tickets to Elf at half price.  With a few hours to spare we went on another boat trip about dusk, this time a proper sightseeing one on the Circleline.  Views were better but the other people were far more annoying!  As well as the good views and commentary it gave us an excellent reason to sit down for a couple of hours.  This revived us for the walk back to Broadway.  We were early so went for a pre-theatre drink in the Scottish bar (it's part of my acclimatisation .  The show was brilliant, as you'd expect from Broadway, even being on the very front row and having the member(s) of One Direction directly behind us meaning everyone else in the audience was distracted.  I enjoyed being able to see every bead of sweat, hidden giggle between the cast and banter between the orchestra.

On the way home Katherine and I had a subway race - I thought waiting for 4 minutes for the train that missed out 5 stops was a better idea than the immediate train that stopped at all 7 stops - it was.  We went to Two Boots, a small chain store, for a slice of pizza.  The two boots represent Italy and Louisiana (both boot shape) but I was mostly drawn in by the mosaic.

Our last morning we managed to get up and out the quickest ever!  That's what the last day will do to you.  First stop was Rockefeller to watch the ice skating.  I intended to skate, but once we were there I realised that it was just going round and round in circles!  So we went up high to view NY from the observation deck.  The sun was in our eyes so not the best view of downtown Manhattan   Also I'm not sure if it's the time of year or pollution or just the day's weather, but we couldn't see very far at all - it was hazy.  Still, gives you a sense of the epic proportions of the place.  Next we attempted to go shopping, however neither of us knew what we wanted or where we wanted to go!  Mild success was had.  We stopped for a breather outside the library where Katherine took a tumble and broke the mug I'd just bought (and her knee!).  We slowed down slightly but ploughed on.  The last mission of the day was manicures.  Time was tight, but we just about managed it.  Unfortunately Katherine's girl was rubbish so her nails are not as good as mine.

JFK is small and rubbish and I had possibly the worst restaurant service of my life.  That is all.

California

Day 1

I arrived to LA airport at 7am after 2 planes (3.5 and 13.5 hours with 2 hours between) and not very much sleep due to the couple next to me fidgeting with the light and getting up multiple times.  Despite this I managed to get through the whole day with only a couple of minor personal earthquakes (dizzy spells).

My first mission was to get to Santa Monica.  I managed and it only cost $1.  BARGAIN!  But it took a while and I had to drag my bag and I thought I was lost soooo many times.  When I got to Santa Monica I found Katherine's hostel fairly quickly and she was waiting outside - lovely!!  Oh, my ankles had swollen from the plane, especially my bike injured one, so I looked a state.  Oh well.  We went for breakfast and then a wander down the beach and through town before hopping a bus to Downtown LA.  I looked around the oldest house in LA and then we caught a train to Hollywood.  We found the hotel fairly easily and it was by far the prettiest thing on the block.

MELISSA arrived with the hire car.  HURRAH!  We all declared hunger and went for a walk along Hollywood Boulevard to see what we could find.  There were stars on the floor from pretty soon after we left, but everyone else was just going about their daily business.  It was weird.  We found a nice Mexican place and had tequilla cocktails and yummy food.  We all thought it was bed time but it turned out to be only 7pm so we walked along some more of the road.  Hollywood seems to be made up of people dressed as famous people trying to take photos with you, tourists and homeless people.  We had a nice chat with a guy called Earl on the way back to the hotel.

Day 2

We had AMAZING breakfast and then headed off.  LA is big and sprawling and gross and it took us ages to get out.  So long that by the time we hit the highway and checked the sat nav we were not going to make to Hearst Castle by our booked 3pm tour, so we rescheduled for 9am tomorrow and that meant we could take our time on the journey.  Which was good because first thing we did was get lost.  We still don't really know how - all we had to do was keep keep the sea on our left.  Oh well!!

Stop one was Santa Barbara; we all though that Santa Barbara was exactly what we thought LA should be - pretty and by the sea and clean and with nature.  Next we headed up to the mountains and pretty quickly it got windy and HIGH UP!  But very, very pretty.  In LA you can't see the next hill because of what I reckon is pollution, but once you're out the view is much, much better.  Stop two we made in San Luis Obispo.  We planned to visit the mission as it is supposed to be amazing, however we got rather distracted by a beautiful sight from the highway: Madonna Inn.  It is amazing and beautiful and perfect and the only place Melissa will consider getting married.  It was brilliant.

We did the final bit of coast and then found our hotel for the evening, the Sea Otter Inn in Cambria.  Only on arrival did I register that there might be SEA OTTERS here!!  Blonde.  We headed straight to the beach to check it out and discovered hundreds of seals.  By then it was rather dark, so we vowed to take breakfast out there the next morning to see what we can see in the daylight.  We took a walk along the promenade and checked out a redwood shop with a cool man who used to make film sets and his rescue dog before settling down for dinner.  The Moonstone Beach Bar & Grill had an excellent range of seafood and I was brave to go for the seafood pasta with all sorts in it.  Lovely.  We accidentally bought a third bottle of wine to bring back to the hotel with us to enjoy by the fire in our room.  Yum.

Day 3

Sea otters, elephant seals, rain, Hearst Castle, rain, Highway 1, rain, lost, rain, Highway 1, rain, Highway 1, rain, Highway 1, sun, Highway 1, sunset, Highway 1, San Francisco, drink with Jack Kerouac, dinner with Mona Lisa, ice cream and free popcorn.

Day 4

We had an all day walking tour booked but really wanted to see the sea lions at Pier 39 so we headed there first thing (8.30am).  This turns out to be a pretty great time as there were no other tourists and the sealions were pretty feisty.  We caught a bus/street car over to the tour start and immediately got a cable car up a big hill.  The tour was very down to earth, lots of transport up hill and meandering down.  We saw LOADS, I really would recommend the tour to anyone (http://www.therealsftour.com).  I would like to go back to SF one day and would take the tour again at the beginning of a longer stay to take notes.  There's plenty to keep you occupied for a couple of weeks at least.

We did have to duck out slightly early as we were booked on the evening tour of Alcatraz.  The tour was massive with a couple of hundred people at least going around at the same time, so there was lots of not being able to see what the audio tour said you should, etc.  The island and prison are pretty interesting, but I'll admit it didn't seem quite so awful as I was expecting - however I don't have any prison calibration to judge against.  There were some interesting personal stories, etc.  We went to the optional talk "Suicide and Murder at Alcatraz Island" which was a pretty interesting story from the island before the days of the prison - it was not as bloody and gory as I wanted though!

When we got back to dock my friend Elspeth and her boyfriend Chris were waiting for us.  It was brilliant to have a(nother) friend across the world!  The three of us were pretty exhausted after all the day's walking, so picking a place for dinner was trickier that it could have been.  We settled for the place right across the street as it was right across the street.  Turned out to be a good choice and some of the best food I've had all trip.  It was really good to catch up with Elspeth.  She's been over there for over 3 years now, having now finished her studies and working at the university.

We got a lift back to the hotel and all had a bit of a sort out ready for the early morning drive to the airport.

New Zealand, North Island


Sorry that this is late and ridiculously long and that there are so many photos on facebook.  I did lots.  And I haven't proofread this.  So there.

Day 1 Christchurch to Auckland to Waiwera

My first view of New Zealand was arriving in to Christchurch airport.  The mountains were VERY impressive!  And are very near to the town.  Then came sheep (already seen more sheep than people and I hadn't even landed) then we landed.  Due to logistics I then had 4 hours to wait in the airport so I did the sensible thing pre-camping and had the longest shower possible.

Internal NZ flights might be the most relaxed thing ever.  Didn't need to worry about liquids (Cass even told me of someone taking a McDonald's on after forgetting what time it was - it just needed to be x-rayed) and away we want.  I much preferred Jetstar to all the other flights (Qantas) so far - the staff were even funny!!

On arrival at Auckland airport Cass and Joe were waiting for me at the gates WITH A SIGN!  It was very exciting.  I couldn't really believe I was with them on their adventure on the other side of the world.  We found the van (Amber) and headed off in to the night.  Cass had a brilliant plan of where to stay to fulfil my wants of hot springs the next day.  Unfortunately the campsite (that was hiding) was closed and we couldn't find the other one.  So we spent the night all three of us in the van (Joe gallently took the kitchen floor) in a layby next to some public toilets.  In the tree next to us there was a gnawy creature.  Some sleep was had (I snored through my cold (maybe I do anyway?)).

Day 2 Waiwera to Whangarei

We woke to the sound of Tuis and the discovery that we were just across the road from the beach.  Nevertheless we drove to a different bit of beach to have breakfast looking out before heading to Waiwera thermal spa resort.  Pools ranged in temperature from 34-48 degrees; we didn't manage the hottest for fear of cooking ourselves.  One of the pools has a movie screen!  The place also had slides which eventually opened (an hour later than advertised) but it was worth it for Joe to get a go.  Cass and I both did each slide once and then went for the rubber rings in the gently flowing river.  Just when we were having our last warming dip in the movie pool the RAIN started properly and we decided to get some lunch and then get going up the road.

On our way we found a little town with a statue to Scotland and celtic links.  We didn't find as much as we expected so just took a picture and carried on our way.  Somewhere along the way we had naps, but I can't remember where.  Final stop of the day was Wharenghi Falls via a very big diversion and traffic queue.  We found a lovely little family run campsite where Cass made noodle soup and we drank wine.  Joe and I (the snorers) took the van and Cass went out in a tent.

Day 3 Whangarei to Paihia

In the morning the rain was not to be seen and went on a lovely waterfall walk then through some bush down river to a Kauri forest and canopy walk.  Kauri trees are massive and grow up very straight with only branches and leaves at the top.  We will find more (and a visitors information centre) later in the trip.  We then had a bit of a detour to some other falls that were not marked on the map, meaning we had a long way to go back to the van - boo.

We stopped for lunch at a beach at Tukatuka where we found some nesting shags with fairly large young.  I accidentally fell asleep in the van for a while, with my arm resting in a bungee rope that the others found odd - I thought it was comfy.  Joe found a boat & snorkel trip that he really wanted to do, so booked on it for the next day.  As we were leaving town we spotted a limestone reserve with interesting rock formations, so stopped for wander around.  There were a few trees with dead possums hanging out to dry, which was a bit creepy so we went around fairly fast!  There is a handy little walk around what used to be the tramway for transporting the coal from the mine.

We carried on driving to the Bay if Islands (via the Kawakawa famous public toilets) mostly in the rain and hail and did a wreckie of Paihia before picking the first campsite we'd seen.  I was still feeling rather ill and it was raining and cold and miserable so we booked a lodge for two nights to stay put.  It was right on the beach with our own bathroom and kitchenette.  The main reason we picked this place was it is in walking distance of a pub!  There are very few pubs around, and when we were one of only two tables of people in there it's easy to see why.  A few jugs of beer, pub food, good chat and horse & greyhound racing on the TV was lovely.

Day 4 Paihia (Bay of Islands)

Joe headed off in the van very early to get to his trip, whereas Cass and I had a more leisurely morning and were picked up for our boat adventure.  We headed on a tour of the Bay of Islands on a small ferry sized ship.  We were last on due to a mix up with tickets so all the good upstairs seats were taken; this worked to our advantage and we got prime spots up on the front of the boat instead.  This was the best idea ever until we started at some speed so got rather cold rather quickly!  It was worth it, as we may never be back.  The skipper gave entertaining commentary on the way of the history of the islands.  Most stories involved incomers doing something that the local Maouris didn't like (tapu = sacred) and then killing them.  We were supposed to be spotting dolphins but instead found Orca - this is probably why there were no dolphins!  It was brilliant, we got really close and watched them feeding on sting ray in the shallow waters for a while, then the bull swam directly under us and off in to the mighty Pacific.

We carried on our way to the 'Hole in the Rock', which is exactly what it sounds like.  It looked like a much smaller hole than our boat so I was rather surprised when we headed straight for it, and also rather surprised when we got through just fine!  We then spent 5 minutes trying to identify a species of ray that turned out to be a plastic bag.  Don't litter, children.  We next stopped on the island of Urupukapuka for refreshments.  This hub of island commercialism incorporates 1 bar/restaurant!  Cass and I opted for a longer stay so waved our boat off and went exploring.  We had our own personal beach for a while, spotted birds (the oyster catchers that are all black with orange beaks and something else nesting on the beach) and climbed hills for excellent views.  Then a bit of a lounge around and rest before the boat returned and we got a lift to Russell with the afternoon trip.

Russell is one of the oldest towns in New Zealand boasting the oldest church and first police station.  We found it to be rather deserted and uninteresting, but that could just be our bad timings!  So we didn't stay long and got the passenger ferry back to Paihia and walked back to the campsite.  We took a while longer than expected as we followed the 'coastal path' - with hindsight we're not sure there was one, as we had to leap rocks and paddle through the water to make it along.  We did it, eventually, and earned our dinner with wine evening in.

Day 5 Pahia to Ahipara

After the second night in our cabin we abandoned all hope of kayaking as the weather was pants ("changeable").  It seems the weather is nice for alternate days only.  Instead we headed to Waitangi National Reserve, the site of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi between the Maori and Europeans in 1840.  The tour started with a video starring Billie Bear, our boat captain from the Bay of Islands cruise!  Cass and I were very excited.  We then learnt of Maori customs and history in the traditional way, through storytelling.  Maori only have a written language because the Europeans made them.  The tour was ok, but not as good as the ticket seller made out - we learnt more from the video and guide books we had read in advance, and more again by listening in to our guide later telling other groups better things.  We had a spot of lunch in the cafe with excellent views of a pond and local wildlife, including Tui and eels.  Officially the best pies Cass has had in NZ.

We swung by Haruru Falls (horseshoe) and then headed further north to our next destination: Ahipara.  We tried to check out Manganui harbour on the way, but the weather did not allow any sailing fun.  The campsite we found had a great common room so we sat and played cards with a background of American Idol.  I now have only seen this programme in my parents' house and there.

Day 6 Ahipara to Cape Reinga to Kohukohu

We got up bright and early the next morning for a bus trip to Cape Reinga via Ninety Mile Beach, the furthest north point of New Zealand.  Our guide fooled us in to thinking he was terrible, but once we got going on the trip properly he was excellent.  I mostly enjoyed his singing of traditional Maori songs, although when he listed Yugoslav names for a seemingly long time was also good.  On our way up we saw the most northerly pub and post office and had a rather unsuccessful lunch at a lovely beach.  At the end of New Zealand the Pasific Ocean meets the Tasman Sea, resulting in big waves where the currents collide.  I guess I hadn't thought about oceans crashing in to each other before.  Ninety mile beach is a lie - it's 56 miles - but it is a main highway in Northland.  TO get there the road is along a stream, which is possible all year round for a reason I forget.  Along this stream we had a brief stop to sandboard down a dune - I went for the sledge option but came off 2/3 of the way down.  The beach ran us all the way back via a bus wash, where Cass blagged us sandwiches as we'd missed most of lunch.

Once back at camp majority rule meant we headed off down south.  We accidentally found NZ's oldest bridge (disappointing) and set up camp at a wee treehouse camp ground in Hokianga surrounded by beautiful gardens.

Day 7 Kohukohu to Baylys Bay

Amber (the camper) did not want to start the next morning.  A lady from the campsite (we think daughter-in-law) was out pushing her small child in a pram and offered to help us push start.  We go to the bottom of the drive with no luck, so Joe did the manly thing and looked at the engine - success!  We were on our way.  We'd missed a ferry by then so drove around for a while before getting the next one.  On board we kept the engine running just in case, and the helpful ticket collecty man found us a garage a few towns down who would come out and open and up on a Saturday so we went to see Bruce.  He got her sorted, including taking her for a very fast test drive without warning so Cass and I clung on for dear life (and tried to continue with crochet!).

Eventually we reached our destination: the Kauri forests.  These massive trees have been used over centuries by Mauri tribes to make wake (ceremonial canoes), etc.  We first saw Tane Mahuta, the Father of the Forest (largest Kauri at 52m tall and over 13m girth) before heading down the road to see the second largest and the Four Sisters (down a closed unsafe path).  Continuing the pattern of weather the day was rainy and cold but ever hopeful we went to look at a DOC campsite down on a lake (possible Kaiiwi) hoping that it was sheltered from the wind and rain.  NOPE!  So we continued on and ended up at Baylys Beach where we got a 4-bed cabin and found a lovely pub/restaurant for fish and chips and beer.

Day 8 Baylys Beach to Waipu Cove

After a spot of breakfast we drove down to see the beach - Joe had tried the previous evening but it was further than we though so he went straight to the pub.  Following signs and expecting a car park we accidentally drove on the beach, but Amber coped well and all was fine.  It was a glorious day, but windy as.  As we'd had less wind on the east coast we decided to head there instead of further down the windy west.  This was a good plan and we had a lovely afternoon on the beach at Waipu Cove.  We all went in the Mighty Pacific!  And made a sandcastle.  As we were having such a nice time we decided to stay and drink wine and camp at the nearest place.  I might have got a little bit too much sun and was tired and emotional - it turns out I'm not very good at just sitting on a beach all day.  Also I made curry that was far too hot for the others to eat, so was a bit annoyed at myself.  C'est la vie.

Day 9 Waipu Cove to Huntly

We had breakfast on the beach and spent a few more hours lounging.  Due to my revelation that I'm not programmed for beaches we grabbed some lunch (Cass acquired chips and Joe cooked eggs on the public BBQ, available at all good beaches) we headed in search of a beach that had other activities around.  Goat Island (named as they used to leave goats on it in case of shipwreck so the survivors had food) seemed the perfect candidate, boasting a sandy beach, snorkelling and wildlife.  It turned out that the beach is grey and the weather turned a little so we weren't so keen on snorkelling.  Oh, and also we had to drive along a freshly not-quite-finished road resurfacing, which mostly came away on the tires and cause the van to make HIDEOUS screeching sounds.  Joe braved the cold waters to make up for the journey (which did have beautiful views) for some snorkelling.  I was togged up and water up to my waste before chickening out.  I have tried snorkelling a few times and always hated it, so didn't want to panic when out there on my own in the cold.

After that success we decided to bomb it down the road and get as far south as possible to aide the plans for the next few days.  This took us to Huntly, a typical Kiwi town, which I found fascinating.  As usual all shops closed about 4pm so by the time we got there we could just about get bread and milk.  The campsite was mostly full of single men in the area for work, either in their own campers/converted buses or cabins, but it was also on the border of a nature reserve.  I rescued the too hot curry by the addition of tinned tomatoes and we enjoyed the view.

Day 10 Huntly to Rotorua

This day's plan had changed about 100 times, but we got there in the end!  Firstly a journey to Watiomo where Joe and I saw glowworms in a cave.  The drive took us through NZ's corrugated iron capital - Otorohanga, a whole town whose signs are made from corrugated iron and some whole buildings are too.  The glowworms were in a massive limestone cave.  We went through caves and learnt about the formation, graddually getting darker to get our eyes adjusted.  We then saw the glowworm fishing lines, which I hadn't seen before so was fascinating, and then headed to a very peaceful boat ride along with glowworms overhead.  Overall the tour was very nicely done and I think not harmful to the caves.  Meanwhile Cass had been on a walk and found a substation (!!) and did better gift-shopping than me - or at least looking and letting me know so I went back and got a brilliant mug.  :-)

Then we headed to Matamata where we met Mel (Cass's sister) and Em (her wife) and the three of them went off to Hobbiton whilst Joe and I did laundry.

Day 11 Rotorura

Em was still a bit upside down and tired so opted out of the days activities for exploring the town on her own - sounds like she had a lovely time.  The four of us went touristy!  Firstly the sheep show - 19 breeds of sheep, duck herding, cow milking (starring me) and lamb feeding (starring Joe).  What a feast.  Then we went in search of Kiwi at Rainbow Springs.  One of the highlights was the log flume boasting 9 minutes of adrenalin - mostly hilarious because we were poking fun at the ride for 8 of the minutes before realising the drop was actually rather far!!  We saw captive Kiwis in the breeding programme and Mel and I had an argument with a lady who wanted to shine a light at them.  Throughout this Cass accidentally played them Kula Shaker.

Between the activities we prepare a hangi - the traditional Maouri way of cooking using the heat from the ground.  We prepared a lot of vegetables and a bit of meat and put them in a big tin and in to the campsites proper area.  In theory you can do this in the actual ground, but this was was safer for us!  After 5 hours or so dinner was ready and yummy.  Weirdly still not hot, even though steamed through.

Oh, also that day Joe dug a big hole in the beach for us and we had a little hot pool.  The whole hot thing was pretty weird!!

Day 12 Rotorua

The day again started with tourist things: Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland.  There's a geyser that prisoners found when clearing the area of bush and washing their clothes, so now every day at 10:15 they add bio detergent to the geyser and it spouts water out.  Despite the tourist pull it was still interesting and amazing to see.  We then walked around the various pools of the wonderland.  It's so fascinating that this all exists - bubbling mud, hot ground water, sulphur and other salt deposits.  To counteract how bonkers that all is we threw ourselves down the hill at the Luge.

We decided to venture in to town on our last night as there was a night market.  Night market is a bit of a strong term, especially as apparently it slows right down after dark!  On the way there we had a little look at the Maouri village.  The difference from other villages we'd seen was that the graves were above ground encased in concrete - I since found out that this is because it is risky to dig down as they don't know what thermal stuff they'll find under there.

Cass, Joe and I attempted to have a big night out, but only managed a couple of drinks!  Lame-o.

Day 13 Rotorua to Tokaanu

Before leaving Rotorua we had a quick glance at the park in town.  It's quite interesting to think about having a normal park with random thermal outbursts.

We headed up the road to Lake Taupo, from which we could see Tongariro erupting.  It's a lovely town that we would have stayed for longer in if the weather was a teeny bit nicer and if there wasn't a national bike race running through it!  As it was we made plans for the next day and headed to a campsite to allow them - a campsite that also happened to have various hot pools on site.  Lovely.  But a bit Kiwi-as.

Day 14 Tokaanu to Ohakune

The morning started with an early pick up for Cass, Joe and I to go white water rafting.  Joe had been rafting but for Cass and I it was a first.  We paid an extra $4 for this tour compared to some others, but for that got a chocolate on board, beer, hot dog and a jump in a secret waterfall half way round.  Rafting was not nearly as strenuous or hard as I thought it would be - that could just have been our excellent guide and good gear though.  To get to the waterfall jump we had to rockclimb/scramble/swim along an inlet to find a two stage waterfall.  The jump was from the first half of this down to the bottom, where the water is double aerated and deep.  Joe went first followed by Cass.  They made it look easy, even though they also looked scared.  When I got up there my feet refused to jump.  SO in the end my body went and my feet followed, so I went head first.  I was thinking on the way down that this is how tourists die.  I didn't, but it wasn't pleasant!!!  I felt a bit dizzy for a while afterwards.

After a bit of recovery (shower, hot dog, cider, shopping) we got dropped back at the van to find very relaxed Mel and Em; they'd been for a walk and to the thermal spa.  Cass, Joe and I had a speedy walk around the thermal park to catch up, then we had a speedy lunch followed by a 2 hour bush walk around a lake.  Confusingly most of the walk was uphill.

Mel and Em then dropped us at Orakune Junction and headed down the road towards Wellington, before the head to the South Island.  We found a cute backpackers run by a couple from Saltaire, Yorkshire.  As free bike hire was mentioned we thought we better should so we did.  I'm not sure if it was my waterfall head dive, general tiredness/lack of co-ordination or the freshly gravelled path, but I quickly wiped out and limped back to the hostel bleeding from leg and arm.  At least the town had a PUB that was open past 9pm!  This is rather unusual.  It was warm and cosy and did yummy food and beer, so we were set for the night.

Day 15 Ohakune to Auckland

We started with a lazy morning of admin - research, checking e-mails and phoning home.  The house was lovely for doing this, with two living rooms and a deck all round.  We then did the long trek to the train station (about 1 minute walk) to wait for the train.  It's so weird that the country does not run on trains.  One train goes from Auckland to Wellington and back the next day, no service on Wednesdays.  Fortunately Sunday is a north day, so we all boarded the train for a scenic and very comfortable ride through the mountains and valleys.  Cass and Joe left at Hamilton to fulfil Joe's wish to go there (we think it's probably dull) and from there they will hitchhike back to Wellington.  I stayed on the extra two hours to Auckland.

Auckland seemed to be the same as most big cities, and because I was tired and alone and had to be up early I just found food and stayed in.

Sydney


Sydney

I left my hostel in Singapore with 1.5 hours to get to the airport to be there 2 hours before.  It should have taken less than an hour, so I was swimming in time.  When changing MRT I realised I was not going to be there for 2 hours before at all any more, and started to have a mini panic, remembering that some check-ins close 2 hours before.  I was from then on rather speedy at all changes and ran to check in.  Everything was fine.

The flight was delayed due to 2 lost passengers.  Eventually I gained from this as the guy next to me moved in to one of their seats and I got two.  Hurrah!  Prior to that I was in possibly the worst seat possible.  We took off around 8.30pm Singapore time, so I watched a film, ate dinner and then slept.  Unfortunately this was about 3 hours before landing by then, and so I landed at 6.30am Sydney time with only 2 hours sleep in me.  I made it in to the centre (very easy direct train) and found the hostel.  I could leave my bag and have a shower, cheering me up.  When in the shower the room began to move.  I've never been that disorientated before.  I needed sleep and couldn't check in for 5 hours.

The obvious answer: Sydney Botanical Gardens.  I found a bench and lay down to read my book and had mini naps.  The view was lovely, temperature just right.  I think I stayed there for 4 hours!  I did wander around a little before and after, ended up back at the hostel about 3 to check in.  I tried to call the Pickerings but couldn't find any of them so had a nap.  Everything began to stay still for longer by now.  After my nap I managed to find Uncle Dick by phone, and then ran off to meet Sarah for dinner.

It was pretty fortunate for me that I found a friend in Sydney.  I was so tired and disorientated and blistered (feet) and still full of a cold that I was pretty fed up.  Some bargain dinner and a couple of drinks and a catch up made me feel much more human!  Sarah's living here for up to a year on a temporary working visa, combining travel and earning money with being nearer her boyfriend.  We talked of everything from the last few years, careers, boys, what we want to do next, politics, Scottish independence, the Royal Family.  As you do.

I am definitely not cut out for shared rooms.  And top bunks.  At least everyone was back by about 11 and lights out.  Despite being so tired I still woke up at 3am for a few hours.  Even resorting to my sleepy album didn't work.

I managed to get up and check out on time and store my bags again.  I went to the MCA cafe as I knew this had free wifi and a good view.  Turns out that timings didn't work out and I didn't get to talk to David.  I did discover a crowd that turned out to be waiting for Prince Charles.  The bloody big cruise ship that was in the way of most of my photos hung out a sign saying "Royal Suite Available".  He was due in 8 minutes, so I thought why not go and see him, so I did.  I spotted a few nutters - a lady determined to give him an envelope that police were telling her that it wasn't a good idea, people who'd made signs, people covered in flags.  But in general everyone was polite and well mannered - until he arrived, then PUSHING started.  Not amused.  Still, it was interesting to see.  He looked younger in real life than I expected.  He might be king.  Weird.

Still tired and ill and sore of feet I didn't fancy much adventure, so I just wandered around the Rocks, up to the Bridge and back to the hostel for a bit of a rest and some crochet.  Oh, and writing this and a photo sort.  Recharging.

Then just as I was about to leave to meet Auntie Janet the biggest hailstones I have ever seen happened.  They were as big as marbles, and melted instantly as it was warm.  It was very weird!  So I departed 10 minutes later and was still perfectly on time.  I discovered the raincover on my rucksack is bright yellow - there is no need for that.  And I managed my day bag, rucksack, suitcase and umbrella!  I found my lift at the arranged corner and we want in search of Janet's mum and her friend Phil who had been to the Opera House for a concert.  I was thoroughly entertained by their conversation all the way back, but at one point I realised that if they didn't have Aussie accents it would have been rather boring - about mircowaving meals and buses.

We arrived at the Aussie Pickerings and Katrina was home so we had a little catch up.  Then she went out and Liv came home and went out again, then Uncle Dick came home and Kat came back - it was really nice and comforting to be around the normal family comings and goings.  I find it really interesting how my dad and his brother are very alike even though they moved apart in their early twenties, and although the Aussie Pickerings have not been big parts of our lives due to distance we are all so alike in the way we interact and mannerisms.  I was still ill and tired so headed to bed early.

Saturday we had a lovely family day.  I thought everyone was going to have bits and bobs to do, but I think they secretly liked having a sneaky holiday day, so we went for a drive, coffee, views in the morning.  Back for lunch and then had a movie afternoon (the girls are very good at these if you need - including popcorn) followed by out to Manly Wharf for dinner.  The restaurant was full of trendy young people including a footballer and someone from Australian Masterchef, but I didn't know any of them.  The food and views were lovely.  The noise was a little too much for me and my cold so I was thoroughly exhausted by the time we got back.

Sunday had a very early start with Uncle Dick driving me to the airport - he even parked and accompanied me in the queue, which was very lovely.  We parted ways and he promised that next UK trip would include Scotland - we'll see!

Next stop: New Zealand...

Singapore


As I can't seem to do notes on Facebook anymore...

Some extra detail in here just for Andy and Em who are coming here in a few weeks.  If you're really keen read alongside checking out the pictures on Facebook.

I arrived early on Sunday evening (1 hour ahead of schedule, apparently) and breezed through border control.  Actually, there was a faff because we didn't get landing cards on the plane so I had to fill that in, which was a bit annoying.  I got the skylink (or whatever it was called) to T3 to get the MRT and then had to walk to T2 to get an EZcard (like an Oyster card - the only notable difference is that you need to beep off the bus as well as on).  It came with $7 credit and I've topped up with $10 - not sure if that'll be enough yet, but seems likely.

Getting to the hostel was fairly straight forward, there was just a festival that blocked my view that made me a bit unsure.  This festival has been going on ALL HOURS OF THE DAY for ages apparently.  There's a stage at one end of a bit tent, and makeshift alter (are alters only Christian?  I'm not sure what religion it is) at the other.  There are stage shows constantly with lovely costumes (but I'm not allowed to take photos) and LOUD music, and at the other prayers and blessings for queues of people.  It gets a bit repetitive to the uninitiated.

The hostel itself is not quite what I expected.  12 in a room (I'd forgotten that bit) and one toilet and one shower for all.  It's a good job it's not full (and the other rooms too).  There's seating out on the balcony, but that gets a bit hot and noisy (even when there isn't festival there is traffic and bustle, which makes it hard to phone home).  But it has quite a charm, especially due to Aini.  She's 60/65 (I found out in conversation but forgot) and has a pension so this is just spending money.  If you're nice to her, she'll be nice to you - but otherwise...  There really is everything you need here, but it took me a while to realise.

My first night I got settled and showered and fed (chicken, pineapple and potatoes in a lovely Thai sauce and rice) by Aini who runs the hostel.  I'm not sure I'm a dormitory person, I like to spread.  Then I went for wander to see the neighbourhood.  We're on the edge of Chinatown, between two MRT stations (Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar) so pretty handy.  I found a lot of music and drumming so went to investigate; I found a fire walking ceremony and block after block after block of men queuing to take part.  I can't remember if I found much else that evening (but I hadn't gone out until 10 and what I did find was pretty spectacular!).  I bought a sneaky beer on the way back to the hostel and sat out on the balcony observing the goings on (they didn't grate on me yet).

I fell asleep around 11.30pm thinking "I'm knackered, jet lag is nonsense" only to wake up at 3am and not be able to get back to sleep.  Aside from the snores and shuffles of my room mates there was also some rather LOUD cracks of thunder - I thought the block was falling down.  I eventually fell asleep as others were getting up around 6.30, but still forced myself up about 9 as I didn't want to my body clock to get any more wrong.

I started with a walk along Pickering Street towards the centre.  I wandered along the river.  Occasionally I got lost trying to cross the road - you were forced up in to shopping centres, so I followed signs that I thought were the right roads, but it turned out to be the wrong side still or somewhere else altogether!  Eventually I found what I was looking for: the Merlion.  Best combination of animals ever.  Lion head, fish tail.  It's entirely useless on land, sea or air!  But it does provide for a good photo.

By this time I had failed to have lunch so was flagging a bit.  I decided to go find a sandwich or some such and sit by the fountain of wealth.  Well, it turns out the fountain is inside a shopping centre that is under construction.  Took AGES to find, and then was quite disappointing when I did.  It is literally surrounded by a food court.  I couldn't even find a food retailer with a good view of it, so had s strop and went back to the hostel and ate Ritz crackers.

After a bit of a rest and a shower I headed to the botanical gardens for a wander.  I found the first of the outdoor stages I want to run.  And some brilliant sculptures.  Oh, and some plants.  Then I walked along to the beginning of Orchard Road - all a bit overwhelming for me so I nipped on a MRT to find a promised light show at 8pm from the Merlion.  I, again, got lost in a shopping centre - even though this time I knew where I was going!  Rather grumpy.  However I found it and was not disappointed - there was a light show.  It was pretty cheesy, but I'd have been far grumpier if I'd done all that for nothing!

By this time I was really hungry as it was 8pm and I'd only had Ritz crackers since peanut butter on toast for breakfast!  So I wandered along the riverside looking for the first place I could eat at.  Well, I didn't go for the first, that was an Irish pub.  Then I skipped all the American and English places, so went to the first Thai place.  It was decent enough, and I got a view over the river at the same time.  All in all $30 for the view would have been ok, but also had a meal and beer!  I then strolled along the river to settle the food down - and once that didn't work I walked back to the hostel - it's only about 30-60 minutes, and by then I knew the way.

The next morning I was up bright and early (about 7) so headed out of town to Bukit Timah nature reserve, a small piece of rainforest left in middle of the island.  I got a bit lost finding it!  I had great instructions from Aini at the hostel - MRT to Newton, bus 170 from there.  Only there wasn't a 170, only a 171, but it had Bukit Timah on the stops so I went for it.  It turns out the 170 and 171 go the same way that far, so although I could have got a 170 by leaving the MRT station at a different exit, this was fine.  However when we got to 'Bk Timah ctr' bus stop it said something subtly different, including a shopping centre, or some such, so I didn't get off.  I thought I'd see signs and it would all be ok.  But after a bit I got off, crossed the road in search of the allusive 170.  I went back a few stops then found writing on the floor, went on 2 more stop (or should that be back??) and was there.

I decided to take the South View Path as I'd read in the guide book this was more like Singapore of old, rather than the straight to the summit trail as this is tarmacked   Well, this trail was also concreted in giant steps, so soon the combination of heat, humidity, cold and unfitness meant I was rather sweaty!  The rainforest is pretty cool though.  I was very disappointed with the lack of south views and it was VERY LOUD (see Facebook for soothing rainforest noises) but I'm glad I did it.  There wasn't even a view from the top!  At the top I discovered my camera had been on a weird setting, so although I took a picture then looked at it and it seemed fine, it kept on exposing and I have a few white out photos.  I took a few on the way back down the regular path to remember.  The regular path is wide and paved and accessible - but VERY steep!  Also this was the first place I've seen recycling  which surprised me for such a clean and organised island.

Now for more ridiculous travel.  I decided to go to the zoo, but on the way I changed my mind.  Aini from the hostel invited me out for dinner, and I can go to a zoo any time.  Yes, this might be a very good one, but it's just a zoo.  I was so far out of town that I went there any way (for a wee!) and between the clouds and the looooong wait for the bus I decided not to go in.  I'm a bit sad that I didn't do the night safari, but it's miles away and I wasn't going back again!  I'll maybe get a torch and watch for foxes when I'm home.  So I headed back to the hostel.  The journey was interesting - lots of regular people and families going about their business, seeing normal homes, etc.

I then had a refresh and went out with Aini to Little India for curry.  She is half Indian, half Saudi Arabian by background (Singaporean by birth) so has an interesting mix of culture.  The streets were light and a bazaar up for Deepvali.  Aini treated me (she insisted - a welcome to her small island).  The food was ok, not great altogether, but some bits were brilliant.  We had plenty for two, and lime juice and sweets for less than my meal the day before.  Then we wandered the bazaar (Aini got a dress) and to the sister hostel as Aini needed her pay and to do some business.  The other hostel is much livelier than this one, and even has comfy seats and a bar!  It was a great opportunity for me to look at their literature and get inspired for the next day - I was running out of steam.

Today, my last day, I spent mostly at a great height.  Firstly I headed off to the cable car to Sentosa Island and Mt Faber.  Sentosa Island is an island with admission and once you get there everything costs.  The cable car was $29 but I was happy to pay for being high up with a view.  (I also remembered that the parents gave me birthday money to spend in Singapore.)  Once there I had a go on the luge and skyride (ski lift) for $12.  They are right - once you've been you want to go again (3 goes $20); however, I was a grown woman there on my own surrounded by children, so once was enough.  I wandered through the cable car museum (free, but through gift shops!) and back along the cable ride to Mt Faber.  Once at Mt Faber I couldn't work out how to get out and see/do anything except a restaurant so back to the MRT.  I had what might be my highest ever sneeze.

From there I crossed town to Marina Bay, or more precisely Bayfront to head to Gardens by the Bay.  My first thought was that the gardens would be much better in a couple of years when they have bedded in, but that turned out only to be the bit between the MRT and the gardens proper.  The walk was rather exposed so as soon as I found shelter I consumed some Ribena, concluding this might be the best place I've ever drunk Ribena.  I found massive shiny dragonfly sculptures and then went up the OCBD Skyway ($5) in the Supertree Grove.  These are giant structures that have plants growing on them.  I'm not sure of their purpose (I just looked it up and apparently it's to provide scale and dimension to the gardens, plus they harvest solar energy) but I absolutely love them.

Once I was suitably hot and it started to rain I headed in finding myself in another shopping centre.  This one I did like as it was light and you could still see outside so had some idea of reality.  Also it turned out to be the bottom of the building that looks like a ship on top of other buildings.  And I found the opposite view from the other day, looking back over at the Merlion.  It was, however, another trap and I had to ask where the MRT was.  I got off and Chinatown and did some browsing of the markets. I almost bought a t-shirt that said "I'm not stubborn, my ideas are just better than yours!" but thought better of it.

Just about to head to the airport for my overnight flight to Sydney.  Don't worry, there will not be so much detail about each leg of the trip!

Fast forward

Pause went to fast forward. Don't have blog at new work, never mind a minute to write anything. I love it though.

I did right this the other day though:

"Being 11/11/08 I've been thinking about history. I don't know much about it. I do know what I feel though – I feel proud of the people who fought and died for our country. I have no idea of the politics involved, I have no idea if I agree with whoever made the decision to go to war, but I do agree with every single person who willingly or grudgingly fought for our country, our freedom and our lives. Thank you – whoever and wherever you are now.

"There's no *need* to be anything anymore. No need to be brave. No need to be strong. No need to be resilient. No need to work for supper. No need to care for yourself and your family. No need to behave appropriately. No need to commit. No need to be loyal. No need to keep your opinion to yourself. No need to consider the point of view of other people.

"Life goes on. Move on. Get over it. Restart. Get a new job. Get a new house. Get new friends. I'm as bad as anyone for that, I know. Doesn't mean I like it or I'm proud of it. I wish I was stronger, but I'm not. But I've also never *needed* to be."



Anyway, this last couple of weeks went a little mad. After I don't know how many weekends of being in Edinburgh, and no projects to speak of, I now have too many. It's great. I feel almost human. Not quite, but almost. Right now I blame the migraine.

Anyway, some things in the last few weeks:

-- my parents moved house
-- I started a new job
-- I bought a new duvet (mmmm....)
-- my dog died
-- my gran is poorly
-- I am on the board for PGP
-- I did the orchestra accounts
-- am in the process of shoe boxes for charity
-- still can't play the stupid Berlioz
-- went to Manchester and saw lovely people
-- went to Bradford and saw different lovely people
-- going to see the new parental house this weekend*
-- my window now closes
-- got rid of my bus pass
-- joined the gym and got good at going, but haven't had time in 2 weeks
-- went for drinks with old work
-- went for drinks with new work
-- have sewing projects on the go
-- I don't really sleep

Generally it's been quite mad. Am rather happy though. I just wish there was a bus home from orchestra. Or I could get straps for my 'cello case that means I can carry him on both shoulders.

There's still quite a lot to brain digest though.


*Gran health depending. Must remember a map. And painting clothes. And need to find out which neighbour I might need to introduce myself to get a key.

Pause

I'm still on pause.

Went home last weekend for the last time. I haven't decided how I feel about that yet. There's so much stuff there. And so many memories. But I'm sure the memories will stay with me. It's only a house. I guess I'll see when I go to the new house, whenever that is. I hope I can get home for Christmas. I won't find out if I can until starting New Job. Pause.

I think I want to be an interior designer.

Friday night in Manchester was lovely. It was great to be back and feel at home. I do think about moving back sometimes. I can't, but I do think about it. Part of that is to do with here, not just there. I don't feel like I fit at the moment. Except at home - I love the new flat, mostly. There are some rubbish bits, like that it's freezing, but good housemates make it all fine. But outside of home I appear to have lost a social life.

I hope my new job does fix everything that I think it will.

Oh, this all appears to be sad.

I bought new shoes! Patchwork Skechers. Beautiful. And comfortable. For walking to New Work. Ha ha - that looks a little like I'm going to walk to New York. Maybe I will. Go live with Melissa.

I've got so many craft projects that I'm in the middle of (ERIN! I'm sorry), so yesterday I started a new one. I'm not very good at any of them though.

I'm off to provide proof that I exist, haven't broken the law, and have been employed for 3 years. Wish me luck!