Singapore


As I can't seem to do notes on Facebook anymore...

Some extra detail in here just for Andy and Em who are coming here in a few weeks.  If you're really keen read alongside checking out the pictures on Facebook.

I arrived early on Sunday evening (1 hour ahead of schedule, apparently) and breezed through border control.  Actually, there was a faff because we didn't get landing cards on the plane so I had to fill that in, which was a bit annoying.  I got the skylink (or whatever it was called) to T3 to get the MRT and then had to walk to T2 to get an EZcard (like an Oyster card - the only notable difference is that you need to beep off the bus as well as on).  It came with $7 credit and I've topped up with $10 - not sure if that'll be enough yet, but seems likely.

Getting to the hostel was fairly straight forward, there was just a festival that blocked my view that made me a bit unsure.  This festival has been going on ALL HOURS OF THE DAY for ages apparently.  There's a stage at one end of a bit tent, and makeshift alter (are alters only Christian?  I'm not sure what religion it is) at the other.  There are stage shows constantly with lovely costumes (but I'm not allowed to take photos) and LOUD music, and at the other prayers and blessings for queues of people.  It gets a bit repetitive to the uninitiated.

The hostel itself is not quite what I expected.  12 in a room (I'd forgotten that bit) and one toilet and one shower for all.  It's a good job it's not full (and the other rooms too).  There's seating out on the balcony, but that gets a bit hot and noisy (even when there isn't festival there is traffic and bustle, which makes it hard to phone home).  But it has quite a charm, especially due to Aini.  She's 60/65 (I found out in conversation but forgot) and has a pension so this is just spending money.  If you're nice to her, she'll be nice to you - but otherwise...  There really is everything you need here, but it took me a while to realise.

My first night I got settled and showered and fed (chicken, pineapple and potatoes in a lovely Thai sauce and rice) by Aini who runs the hostel.  I'm not sure I'm a dormitory person, I like to spread.  Then I went for wander to see the neighbourhood.  We're on the edge of Chinatown, between two MRT stations (Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar) so pretty handy.  I found a lot of music and drumming so went to investigate; I found a fire walking ceremony and block after block after block of men queuing to take part.  I can't remember if I found much else that evening (but I hadn't gone out until 10 and what I did find was pretty spectacular!).  I bought a sneaky beer on the way back to the hostel and sat out on the balcony observing the goings on (they didn't grate on me yet).

I fell asleep around 11.30pm thinking "I'm knackered, jet lag is nonsense" only to wake up at 3am and not be able to get back to sleep.  Aside from the snores and shuffles of my room mates there was also some rather LOUD cracks of thunder - I thought the block was falling down.  I eventually fell asleep as others were getting up around 6.30, but still forced myself up about 9 as I didn't want to my body clock to get any more wrong.

I started with a walk along Pickering Street towards the centre.  I wandered along the river.  Occasionally I got lost trying to cross the road - you were forced up in to shopping centres, so I followed signs that I thought were the right roads, but it turned out to be the wrong side still or somewhere else altogether!  Eventually I found what I was looking for: the Merlion.  Best combination of animals ever.  Lion head, fish tail.  It's entirely useless on land, sea or air!  But it does provide for a good photo.

By this time I had failed to have lunch so was flagging a bit.  I decided to go find a sandwich or some such and sit by the fountain of wealth.  Well, it turns out the fountain is inside a shopping centre that is under construction.  Took AGES to find, and then was quite disappointing when I did.  It is literally surrounded by a food court.  I couldn't even find a food retailer with a good view of it, so had s strop and went back to the hostel and ate Ritz crackers.

After a bit of a rest and a shower I headed to the botanical gardens for a wander.  I found the first of the outdoor stages I want to run.  And some brilliant sculptures.  Oh, and some plants.  Then I walked along to the beginning of Orchard Road - all a bit overwhelming for me so I nipped on a MRT to find a promised light show at 8pm from the Merlion.  I, again, got lost in a shopping centre - even though this time I knew where I was going!  Rather grumpy.  However I found it and was not disappointed - there was a light show.  It was pretty cheesy, but I'd have been far grumpier if I'd done all that for nothing!

By this time I was really hungry as it was 8pm and I'd only had Ritz crackers since peanut butter on toast for breakfast!  So I wandered along the riverside looking for the first place I could eat at.  Well, I didn't go for the first, that was an Irish pub.  Then I skipped all the American and English places, so went to the first Thai place.  It was decent enough, and I got a view over the river at the same time.  All in all $30 for the view would have been ok, but also had a meal and beer!  I then strolled along the river to settle the food down - and once that didn't work I walked back to the hostel - it's only about 30-60 minutes, and by then I knew the way.

The next morning I was up bright and early (about 7) so headed out of town to Bukit Timah nature reserve, a small piece of rainforest left in middle of the island.  I got a bit lost finding it!  I had great instructions from Aini at the hostel - MRT to Newton, bus 170 from there.  Only there wasn't a 170, only a 171, but it had Bukit Timah on the stops so I went for it.  It turns out the 170 and 171 go the same way that far, so although I could have got a 170 by leaving the MRT station at a different exit, this was fine.  However when we got to 'Bk Timah ctr' bus stop it said something subtly different, including a shopping centre, or some such, so I didn't get off.  I thought I'd see signs and it would all be ok.  But after a bit I got off, crossed the road in search of the allusive 170.  I went back a few stops then found writing on the floor, went on 2 more stop (or should that be back??) and was there.

I decided to take the South View Path as I'd read in the guide book this was more like Singapore of old, rather than the straight to the summit trail as this is tarmacked   Well, this trail was also concreted in giant steps, so soon the combination of heat, humidity, cold and unfitness meant I was rather sweaty!  The rainforest is pretty cool though.  I was very disappointed with the lack of south views and it was VERY LOUD (see Facebook for soothing rainforest noises) but I'm glad I did it.  There wasn't even a view from the top!  At the top I discovered my camera had been on a weird setting, so although I took a picture then looked at it and it seemed fine, it kept on exposing and I have a few white out photos.  I took a few on the way back down the regular path to remember.  The regular path is wide and paved and accessible - but VERY steep!  Also this was the first place I've seen recycling  which surprised me for such a clean and organised island.

Now for more ridiculous travel.  I decided to go to the zoo, but on the way I changed my mind.  Aini from the hostel invited me out for dinner, and I can go to a zoo any time.  Yes, this might be a very good one, but it's just a zoo.  I was so far out of town that I went there any way (for a wee!) and between the clouds and the looooong wait for the bus I decided not to go in.  I'm a bit sad that I didn't do the night safari, but it's miles away and I wasn't going back again!  I'll maybe get a torch and watch for foxes when I'm home.  So I headed back to the hostel.  The journey was interesting - lots of regular people and families going about their business, seeing normal homes, etc.

I then had a refresh and went out with Aini to Little India for curry.  She is half Indian, half Saudi Arabian by background (Singaporean by birth) so has an interesting mix of culture.  The streets were light and a bazaar up for Deepvali.  Aini treated me (she insisted - a welcome to her small island).  The food was ok, not great altogether, but some bits were brilliant.  We had plenty for two, and lime juice and sweets for less than my meal the day before.  Then we wandered the bazaar (Aini got a dress) and to the sister hostel as Aini needed her pay and to do some business.  The other hostel is much livelier than this one, and even has comfy seats and a bar!  It was a great opportunity for me to look at their literature and get inspired for the next day - I was running out of steam.

Today, my last day, I spent mostly at a great height.  Firstly I headed off to the cable car to Sentosa Island and Mt Faber.  Sentosa Island is an island with admission and once you get there everything costs.  The cable car was $29 but I was happy to pay for being high up with a view.  (I also remembered that the parents gave me birthday money to spend in Singapore.)  Once there I had a go on the luge and skyride (ski lift) for $12.  They are right - once you've been you want to go again (3 goes $20); however, I was a grown woman there on my own surrounded by children, so once was enough.  I wandered through the cable car museum (free, but through gift shops!) and back along the cable ride to Mt Faber.  Once at Mt Faber I couldn't work out how to get out and see/do anything except a restaurant so back to the MRT.  I had what might be my highest ever sneeze.

From there I crossed town to Marina Bay, or more precisely Bayfront to head to Gardens by the Bay.  My first thought was that the gardens would be much better in a couple of years when they have bedded in, but that turned out only to be the bit between the MRT and the gardens proper.  The walk was rather exposed so as soon as I found shelter I consumed some Ribena, concluding this might be the best place I've ever drunk Ribena.  I found massive shiny dragonfly sculptures and then went up the OCBD Skyway ($5) in the Supertree Grove.  These are giant structures that have plants growing on them.  I'm not sure of their purpose (I just looked it up and apparently it's to provide scale and dimension to the gardens, plus they harvest solar energy) but I absolutely love them.

Once I was suitably hot and it started to rain I headed in finding myself in another shopping centre.  This one I did like as it was light and you could still see outside so had some idea of reality.  Also it turned out to be the bottom of the building that looks like a ship on top of other buildings.  And I found the opposite view from the other day, looking back over at the Merlion.  It was, however, another trap and I had to ask where the MRT was.  I got off and Chinatown and did some browsing of the markets. I almost bought a t-shirt that said "I'm not stubborn, my ideas are just better than yours!" but thought better of it.

Just about to head to the airport for my overnight flight to Sydney.  Don't worry, there will not be so much detail about each leg of the trip!

1 comment:

Bowse said...

Congratulations on your high.sneeze and the ribena